WATERMAN, Ill. (CBS) — This Thanksgiving is the last for the Ho-Ka Turkey Farms in Waterman, Illinois after 90 years.
The Kauffman family, which has operated the farm from the beginning, has decided to retire from its turkey growing, farming, processing, and retail operation.
Ho-Ka – short for Howard Kauffman Turkey Farms – was founded in 1933 by Howard Kauffman. He raised the first flock of 300 turkeys at the farm on Leland Road in Waterman, according to the DeKalb County History Center.
As of 2020, Ho-Ka was believed to be the largest turkey farm in the state – and produced about 70,000 turkeys a year for sale in Illinois, Iowa, and Wisconsin, according to the history center.
But this year, Robert Kauffman – son of the founder – decided to retire. The farm said on its website that it did not raise turkeys this year, but has still been selling frozen products.
In years past, the Ho-Ka Turkey farm was the scene for an annual Thanksgiving tradition on CBS 2. Each year, the late Bob Wallace made his way out west to the farm for up-close-and-personal visit with its flock of gobbling turkeys.
The above video is from Wallaces visit 40 years ago. It first aired on Friday, Nov. 11, 1983.
Wallace got a little lesson from Ho-Ka general manger Tom Klopfenstein about turkey behavior. When the turkeys normally red heads start turning blue, theyre getting excited.
Klopfenstein told Wallace it is only male turkeys that do the gobbling. He added that female turkeys are smarter and more cunning as they stay back to protect themselves – while the males just plow ahead.
The turkeys did not seem to be aggressive as Wallace stood in the middle of the flock for his stand-up shot, but they were not exactly behaving themselves either. They all stepped on the microphone cord, made noise, and insisted on getting in the picture – not unlike some TV shoots that involve turkeys of the metaphorical variety.
But as the archive shows he did every year, Wallace still passed the turkeys the microphone and asked them to say hello to CBS 2s principal anchors – Harry Porterfield, Don Craig, and Walter Jacobson. Our anchors reaction to being greeted by a gobbling flock of turkeys, unfortunately, was not available on the archive tape from which this is sourced.
Twelve days later on Nov. 23, 1983 – the day before Thanksgiving – Wallace had another report on turkeys. This one was from the kitchen of the old Lawrys the Prime Rib restaurant at 100 E. Ontario St.
In addition to some straightforward advice for seasoning, cooking, and carving the bird, Lawrys executive chef Hans Aeschbacher told Wallace that chefs have “blue blood,” which he said as he stuck his finger into a gravy of pan drippings and port wine to taste it – despite the fact that it appeared to be boiling.
Back at Ho-Ka Turkey Farms, the retail store will be closed until Monday of next week, and then open by appointment only. An auction is also planned on Dec. 1-2 at the farm to sell off farm equipment the first day, and turkey processing equipment the second.
As Thanksgiving approaches, turkey is on everyone’s mind. For those looking to serve something special, the Hoka turkey offers a premium alternative to the standard supermarket bird. But what exactly is a Hoka turkey, and what makes it so special? This article will delve into the distinctive characteristics, rich flavor, and historical background of this remarkable breed.
An Heirloom of the Heartland
The Hoka is a heritage breed of turkey carefully cultivated by the Kauffman Turkey Farm in rural Northern Illinois. Unlike the Broad Breasted Whites mass-produced for the commercial market, the Hoka is a slow-growing, free-range bird allowed to mature naturally. This results in a robust, richly flavored turkey revered by gourmands.
The Hoka’s lineage can be traced back to the Standard Bronze breed, an heirloom variety prized since the 1800s for its superb eating qualities. By raising the turkeys outdoors and nurturing their gradual development, the Kauffmans have preserved the traditional flavor profile that made the Standard Bronze so beloved.
A Flavor Like No Other
Aficionados praise the Hoka’s tender, succulent meat and rich taste. The Hoka’s active lifestyle and diverse natural diet contribute to its architectural excellence. As they roam freely outdoors, the turkeys develop more muscle and fat insulation compared to confined commercial birds This produces a beautifully marbled meat
A diet of fresh greens, seeds and insects imparts remarkable flavor complexity. The turkeys store up energy in the high-quality fat and protein gained from their omnivorous foraging. This pays off in the unforgettable eating experience of the finished product. Simply seasoned and roasted the Hoka’s inherent flavors shine.
The Kauffman Family Legacy
For nearly 60 years, the Kauffman family has dedicated themselves to preserving the integrity of this special breed Founder Howard Kauffman acquired his first Standard Bronze turkeys in the 1960s He was determined to resist the domination of commercially engineered varieties and honor the turkey’s heritage.
Today, the Kauffmans’ small-farm operation provides life-enriching conditions tailored to the turkey’s instincts. Careful genetic selection retains the best traits of the Bronze. The Kauffmans take pride in producing a sustainable, ethical turkey that looks and tastes the way turkeys were meant to.
Rare and Seasonal Availability
Because of their small-scale production and adherence to natural rhythms, Hoka turkeys are only available for a short window each year. The Kauffmans begin taking pre-orders in October and schedule pick-ups for select days in late November. It takes advanced planning to secure one of these limited gems.
Many loyal “Ho-Ka Hunters” relish the holiday ritual of venturing to the Kauffman farm to choose their bird straight from the flock. The hands-on experience and anticipation adds to the magic of Thanksgiving. For those not in Northern Illinois, the Kauffmans ship fresh Hokas nationwide when weather permits.
Is the Hoka Right for You?
Clearly, the Hoka is no ordinary turkey. The premium price reflects the conscientious farming practices and hours of attentive hatching and rearing required to produce Hoka quality. Foodies willing to splurge will find the expense well rewarded when the first succulent bite melts in their mouth.
The rich, dark Hoka meat also offers nutritional virtues. Free-range exercise and diverse foraging render a lean, protein-packed meat. The stress-free environment results in a low-acid pH that facilitates easier digestion. Those sensitive to commercial poultry will likely find the Hoka agreeable.
For small gatherings, try the smoked breast, or order just a few pounds of breast meat. This allows sampling the Hoka even on a budget. Any way you carve it up, the Hoka turkey promises to make your holiday feast an extra memorable one.
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Adam Harrington is a web producer at CBS Chicago, where he first arrived in January 2006.
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