Heritage turkeys can cost up to ten times the price of a supermarket turkey, so weve got one very important question – are they worth it?
Recognized as a turkey “Standard of Perfection” by the American Poultry Association since 1874, traditional heritage birds were nonetheless eclipsed by tender, milder, big-breasted breeds in the 20th century. The latter became so popular that not too long ago, heritage turkeys were on the verge of extinction, according to NBC News.
The outlet reports that as of 2001, there were only about a dozen Narragansett turkeys in the country; last year, there were over 15,000 heritage turkeys nationwide (still a small number as compared to the 280 million commercially bred turkeys, but it’s a good start).
Here are five reasons why more and more people are opting for heritage turkey on their Thanksgiving tables.
Heritage turkeys have become increasingly popular in recent years, but what exactly are they? This article will take a closer look at what defines a heritage turkey breed, their history, the differences between them and commercial turkeys, and why they are making a comeback on small farms and homesteads
Definition of a Heritage Turkey
A heritage turkey belongs to one of a variety of old-fashioned or historic turkey breeds. Unlike the Broad Breasted turkeys raised in factory farms heritage turkeys have a longer lifespan and can mate naturally. The Livestock Conservancy which works to protect rare and endangered breeds, defines heritage turkeys based on these characteristics
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Naturally mating – Heritage turkeys reproduce without artificial insemination. Hens readily go broody and hatch their own clutches. Fertility rates are around 70-80%.
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Long lifespan – Heritage turkeys live a full natural life, unlike commercial turkeys that go to market in 14-18 weeks. Hens are productive egg layers for 5-7 years, toms for 3-5 years.
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Slow growth rate – Heritage turkeys reach market weight in 28 weeks, not 14-18 weeks like industrial birds. This gives them time to develop a strong structure before adding muscle.
Over a dozen turkey breeds meet the heritage criteria, including Bourbon Red, Narragansett, Standard Bronze, and Black Spanish. The rarest, like the Narragansett, are considered critically endangered with fewer than a thousand birds left.
A Little Heritage Turkey History
The history of heritage turkeys and how they differ from commercial breeds gives insight into what makes them special.
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For most of history, turkeys were kept on small family farms for meat and pest control. Different breeds were selected for local conditions.
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In the early 1900s, turkeys like the Broad Breasted Bronze were developed for more breast meat. The Broad Breasted White became dominant by the 1960s.
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Commercial turkeys were selectively bred only for fast growth, large breast size, and white feathers. This led to problems with reproduction, skeletal and heart issues.
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By the late 1990s, almost all turkeys were the Broad Breasted White. Rare heritage breeds were near extinction with less than 1,500 breeding birds left total in the U.S.
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Conservation groups worked to preserve heritage turkey breeds. Thanks to small farmers, numbers have rebounded to around 25,000 heritage turkeys raised annually.
How Heritage Turkeys Differ from Commercial
Heritage turkeys differ in some key ways from the typical Broad Breasted Whites found in grocery stores:
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Appearance – Heritage turkeys have beautiful, varied plumage in colors like chestnut, gray, brown, cream, and black. Some have iridescent feathers.
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Conformation – Rather than a disproportionately large breast, heritage turkeys have a balanced body shaped more like a wild turkey.
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Flavor – The meat has a robust, gamey flavor rather than a bland taste. Chef Dan Barber called it “the taste of history.”
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Behavior – Their activity level is much higher. Heritage turkeys love to forage, roost in trees, and move around.
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Reproduction – Heritage hens readily go broody and make great mothers. Toms are fertile without artificial methods.
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Growth rate – Reaching market size takes around 28 weeks rather than the commercial 14-18 weeks. This results in stronger bones and health.
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Cost – Because of slower growth and lower breast yield, heritage turkeys are more expensive, from $4-$9 per pound.
Why Raise Heritage Turkeys?
So why would a small farmer or homesteader decide to raise heritage turkeys? There are some good reasons!
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Preserving rare breeds – Raising heritage turkeys supports genetic diversity and protects endangered birds from extinction.
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Sustainability – The ability to mate naturally and greater vitality are more sustainable traits. Heritage turkeys fit well with a pastured poultry model.
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Premium market – The distinctive taste and story behind heritage turkeys allow farmers to charge a higher price at farmers markets and for direct sales.
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Flavor – The rich, intense flavor of heritage turkey simply tastes better according to many chefs and food critics. The high omega-3 content may also have health benefits.
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Appearance – The varied colors and striking patterns make heritage turkeys a beautiful addition to a farm. They stand out next to bland industrial turkeys.
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Self-sufficiency – Heritage turkeys can hatch and raise their own young. Farmers don’t need to rely on a commercial hatchery.
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Pest control – Active heritage turkeys help control bugs, flies, ticks, and weed seeds as they cover ground while foraging.
Popular Heritage Turkey Breeds
If you’re interested in raising heritage turkeys yourself, which breed should you choose? Here are some of the top heritage turkey breeds that are making a comeback thanks to preservation efforts.
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Bourbon Red – This handsome brown turkey with white flight feathers was originally bred in Kentucky. It has good flavor and a high reproduction rate.
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Narragansett – Popular in New England, this large black and gray turkey was known for hardiness and good meat. Hens readily go broody.
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Standard Bronze – Recognizable for the classic turkey coloring, the Bronze was the main commercial breed until the Broad Breasted White.
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Black Spanish – Once called Norfolk Black, this medium to large turkey has beautiful black plumage with green luster. The hens are prolific layers.
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Midget White – A small heritage breed with a high meat yield, the playfully named Midget White is docile and excellent for pastured operations.
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Royal Palm – This striking white and black turkey originally comes from Florida. It’s primarily an ornamental breed.
Bringing Back the Birds of Yesteryear
The heritage turkey comeback is still an uphill battle, with rare breeds numbering in the hundreds or thousands compared to over 200 million commercial turkeys. But the increasing interest from farmers, foodies and Thanksgiving cooks indicates heritage turkeys will continue reclaiming their place at the table. By choosing one of these unique birds with a flavorful history, you can help support genetic conservation and a return to more traditional, sustainable agriculture.
Heritage turkey is tastier.
Trying an heirloom or heritage turkey for the first time may be a bit surprising, because it will actually taste like something – a bit gamier and richer than most supermarket birds. This stronger flavor stems from both the heritage breeds themselves and the age of the bird at slaughter. The latter can also make these birds a bit more textured than the turkey you may be used to.
In a Bon Appétit taste test, while people found heritage turkey more flavorful, they also found it slightly drier; most experts recommend brining the turkey to ensure that it’s moist (read our guide on the Pros and Cons of Brining a Turkey). Others suggest roasting the breast and dark meat separately to ensure ideal flavor and texture in both portions of the bird.
Heritage turkeys are (usually) more sustainable.
Heritage turkeys tend to be a more sustainable choice than supermarket turkeys, but once again, you’ll want to ask a few questions to make sure you know what you’re getting.
“Choosing a sustainably raised bird for Thanksgiving means supporting farming practices that are respectful to the animals and the land, and which ultimately result in a wholesome and healthy turkey,” explains Heidi Diestel.
Most conventional turkeys are bred to have breasts so large that they can only breed via artificial insemination; heritage turkey, on the other hand, grows to a proportionate size, meaning that they can mate naturally. This is a good indicator of whether your bird is a true heritage turkey, so don’t be shy about asking your farmer about the way his or her turkeys are bred.
Heritage turkeys also tend to be slaughtered later than conventional turkeys – on average at about 28 weeks as opposed to 16 weeks for conventional. This is because heritage birds naturally grow at a slower rate. While this is one contributing factor to their higher price point, the other is that most farmers who opt to raise heritage turkeys also choose to incorporate other sustainable practices into their work.
“Choosing a sustainably raised bird for Thanksgiving means supporting farming practices that are respectful to the animals and the land, and which ultimately result in a wholesome and healthy turkey,” explains Heidi Diestel, organic heirloom turkey farmer at Diestel Family Turkey Ranch. “Our thoughtfully raised birds grow slowly and naturally, with plenty of fresh air and room to roam, whether indoors or outdoors.”
That said, do bear in mind that the terms heritage and heirloom turkey only refer to a breed: if you want to be certain that the farmer uses sustainable practices, you may also wish to opt for additional certifications, such as the Global Animal Partnership label that Diestel has earned. You can also find turkeys with antibiotic-free, vegetarian-fed, certified organic, Non-GMO Project Verified, and pasture-raised labels.
What’s So Special About Heritage Turkeys?
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