Baby turkey poults are like any other baby – they need fresh food and water, and to be kept clean and warm. You can download our guide “Caring and Feeding of Baby Turkeys” or continue reading below.
Keeping poults warm entails a brooder. A good brooder will have several things – it will keep the poults safe, have either bedding to absorb wastes or a wire mesh floor to allow droppings to pass through, and a heat source. A brooder can be as simple as a cardboard box with one to three inches of wood shavings for bedding, or as complex as a commercial metal box brooder. For a few poults, cardboard has the advantage of being cheap, disposable/recyclable, and sanitary. A wooden or metal brooder is more appropriate for larger numbers of poults, or if you raise many batches of poults per season. It should be scrubbed and disinfected between uses. Brooders should be large enough to allow the poults to get away from the heat source –3’x4’ is a good size for a few poults and will allow plenty of room for the first couple of weeks. Turkey poults grow rapidly, and will need a larger brooder after a few weeks – they should never be overcrowded. For the first few days, place paper toweling or an old cloth towel over the litter, so the poults learn to eat food, not litter. Keep the brooder clean – change litter at least once a week, more if you have many poults. Damp dirty litter and droppings can cause respiratory problems and infections. Poults should never be brooded on newspaper – its surface is too slick and can cause leg problems.
For a small number of poults, a 100-150 watt hanging clamp-style work lamp is sufficient heat. Clamp to the side of the box and have the bulb and hood hanging over the side. For a greater number of poults, a 250-watt infrared bulb can be used. Infrared bulbs get very hot – they should be kept a minimum of 18 inches away from flammable items (such as wooden or cardboard walls, and wood shavings). If using an infrared bulb, be sure to use a porcelain socket – plastic will melt. A brooder should not be evenly heated. It should have a cooler area for chicks to find their level of comfort. For the first week of life, the brooder should be at about 95 degrees. Poults will let you know if the brooder is too hot or too cold. Too hot, and the birds will crowd as far from the heat as possible. Too cold, and they will stand huddled under the light and peep loudly. Raise or lower the heat source accordingly. If you cannot physically raise or lower the lamp, use a different wattage bulb. For each successive week, the temperature should be lowered 5 degrees until completely feathered out at five to six weeks. If housed out of drafts, they should not need any additional heat beyond this age.
Fresh, clean water should be available to poults at all times. The water should be cool, not hot and not cold. Birds drink to cool themselves down – if they start going through too much water, they may be overheated and the brooder temperature needs to be lowered. For 5 or fewer poults, a quart-size chick fount will take them through a few weeks; for more poults or older birds, a gallon fount will be a more appropriate size. You’ll know if you need a larger waterer if you need to fill more than once per day. Water should never be provided in an open dish – poults will track droppings and spilled feed through it and invite disease. For the first few days, the waterer can be placed directly on the toweling. When the toweling has been removed, place the waterer on a non-slip elevated surface, like a wire platform, to prevent the poults from scratching litter into their water. Increase height as they grow older – bricks or 2X4” wire-covered lumber boxes are equally useful.
Baby turkeys need to eat turkey/gamebird starter mash or crumbles, a blend specially formulated for their growth and development. Layer or breeder mash, crumbles, or pellets should never be fed to poults, not even as an emergency ration. It has a high calcium content that is toxic to poults and will cause bone, liver, and kidney problems or cause death. A good emergency ration is a 50-50 blend of rolled oats and cornmeal, whirled in a food blender to a mash or crumble consistency. They should not be on this emergency ration for more than a day or so, as it does not constitute a balanced diet. Starter feeds should contain no greater than 28% protein – too much protein causes growth problems. For the first few days, sprinkle feed on a paper towel so that poults can learn to eat. Poultry feeders come in many styles, but they should prevent feed spillage and wasting, and prevent contamination with litter or droppings. Elevating the feeder after the first few days helps.
Chick starter can be used to raise turkeys, with cautions: It does not have enough proteins or vitamins for good development. If chick starter is used, be sure to supplement with brewer’s yeast at the rate of 2 cups per 10 lbs of chick starter.
Turkeys have no teeth – they need grit in the form of small rocks to grind their food. Baby poultry grit consists of very small stones, like coarse sand, similar to parakeet grit. It should never contain oyster shell or other forms of calcium – excess calcium is very detrimental to poults. Most store-bought small grit preparations already have oyster shell in them. You can “make” your own chick grit by purchasing a bag of decomposed granite from a building supply store. Wash the granite in a large tub, rinsing out fine sand and mud, and letting it dry. Save the larger pieces for adult poultry, and sprinkle a bit of the smaller grains on the turkey starter as if you were salting food. If poults are given no additional food other than turkey starter, they don’t NEED grit but it may help in certain situations (see below).
Turkeys are good foragers and poults can go out on grass or range on warm days at a couple of weeks of age, if the lawn is unsprayed and grit is provided with their feed. Poults should only be allowed to range on clean ground, preferably where no adult poultry have been for 6-12 months to prevent bacterial or parasitic infestations. Grit may also be a good idea if you are using wood shavings as litter – it will help prevent crop impaction if litter is accidentally ingested.
Diarrhea and vent pasting (droppings sticking to their behinds) is a common problem in young poults. This is caused by a variety of problems, such as a brooder that is too cold. If pasting does occur, carefully pick off the dried droppings (warm water helps) so the vent does not become blocked. If pasting continues, try increasing the brooder temperature, or feed a blend of plain rolled oats processed in a blender mixed 50-50 with turkey starter. Sprinkling chick grit on their feed also helps prevent pasting.
Poults should be fed 28% protein turkey starter until 8 weeks of age. 24-26% protein turkey grower crumbles should be fed after the first 8 weeks until they are approximately 6 months of age. At that time, they can be switched to 16% – 18% lay pellets, crumbles, or mash. Additional calcium (for adults only) in the form of crushed oyster shell is beneficial, especially if the turkeys free range or are fed table scraps.
Raising healthy, hearty turkey poults starts with feeding them the right diet during their first crucial weeks of life As baby turkeys grow from hatchlings to adults, their nutritional needs change, so it’s important to understand what to feed them at each stage. This article will walk you through the ideal turkey poult diet for robust birds from day one through maturity
Turkey Poult Nutrition in the First 8 Weeks
For the first 8 weeks, turkey poults need a feed that is at least 28% protein to support their rapid growth. Look for a turkey starter feed, game bird starter, or chick starter specifically formulated for poultry under 6 weeks old. Avoid plain chick starter, as it only contains 20-23% protein, too low for growing poults.
Turkey poult starter feed should also have higher levels of amino acids like methionine, cysteine, and lysine than plain chick starter These amino acids help form muscles and organs as poults grow
Along with enough protein, turkey starter feeds are fortified with vitamins and minerals like niacin, vitamin D3, calcium, and phosphorus that are vital for development. They may also contain prebiotics, probiotics, and antioxidants to support immune function in young poults.
During the first 8 weeks, feed poults starter feed free choice so they can eat as much as needed to grow. Provide fresh feed in clean trays or troughs daily.
Moving Poults to Grower Feed
At 8-10 weeks of age you can transition poults to a turkey grower feed with slightly lower protein, around 24%. This will have enough nutrition to support their continuing growth and prepare their digestive system for adulthood.
Look for a feed labeled as turkey grower, game bird grower, or high protein poultry grower. Do not substitute plain chick grower, as it only has 18-20% protein.
As with starter feeds, quality turkey grower feeds will have extra amino acids, vitamins, and minerals tailored to the needs of growing turkeys. Probiotics are still helpful at this stage too.
Continue offering grower feed free choice until poults are 16-20 weeks old. Make gradual transitions between starter, grower, and finisher feeds over 3-5 days to avoid digestion upsets.
Finishing Turkey Poults
Once poults reach 16-20 weeks of age, their growth starts to plateau as they near adulthood. At this point, switch them to a turkey finisher or maintenance ration with 16-18% protein.
Look for a feed labeled for mature turkeys, game birds, or all-purpose poultry. Avoid plain layer feeds, as they have extra calcium for egg production that can lead to kidney problems in turkeys.
A finishing feed will have reduced but balanced protein, vitamins, and minerals tailored for non-growing turkeys. You can supplement with grit and oyster shell if needed.
Turkeys can remain on a finisher ration through adulthood since their nutritional needs don’t change much once they mature. Keep feed available at all times in trays, troughs, or spread on the ground.
Supplements and Treats
Along with complete feeds, you can offer a few supplemental treats to poults:
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Hard boiled eggs provide extra protein and nutrients for growth. Mash the shells and mix with the eggs.
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Mealworms and crickets add variety and protein. Offer live or dried.
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Chopped greens like kale, spinach, chard, lettuce provide vitamins and fiber.
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Fruits like berries and melons offer natural sugars.
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Yogurt contains probiotics for gut health. Plain, unsweetened is best.
Avoid excess treats, as poults still need complete feeds for balanced nutrition. Treats should make up no more than 10% of their total diet.
Feed Amount Guidelines
As a general guide, plan on the following amounts of feed for turkeys:
- Poults under 4 weeks: 1 lb feed per 5 poults
- 4-8 weeks: 1.5 lbs feed per 5 poults
- 8-16 weeks: 4 lbs feed per 5 poults
- 16-20 weeks: 6 lbs feed per 5 poults
- Adults: 0.25 lb-0.5 lb feed per poult daily
Adjust amounts based on feed quality, activity level, temperature, and individual birds’ conditions. Free choice feeding ensures poults can eat to meet their needs.
Weigh poults weekly and monitor their body condition to assess if you need to adjust feed amounts or nutrition. Active poults with filled out, plump breasts are getting adequate feed.
Setting Up Proper Feeding Stations
To ensure poults can access feed easily, set up poult-friendly feeding stations:
- Use shallow, wide feeders poults can walk into easily. Chick feeders work well.
- Raise feeders on blocks or stands so poults don’t scratch litter into them.
- Space multiple small feeders around the brooder instead of one large one.
- Place feeders near heat lamps or brooders so poults can eat comfortably.
- Situate feeders on wire mesh or grids so spilled feed falls through.
- Use separate feeding stations for starter, grower, and finisher feeds during transitions.
- Clean and refill feeders daily to prevent mold, bacteria, or stale feed.
Proper feeders will minimize waste while allowing free access for all poults.
Watering Turkey Poults
Always provide a constant supply of fresh, clean water along with feed. Use chick founts with shallow trays or troughs in the brooder. Raise founts on stands to prevent litter from contaminating the water.
Make sure the water source is close to the heat lamp so poults don’t have to choose between getting warm and getting water. Empty and scrub waterers daily.
After the brooding period when poults go outside, use large waterers they can submerge their heads in to drink. Automatic or nipple waterers work well too. Refill waters frequently to keep supply fresh.
Access to feed tailored to their growth stage and clean water is essential for raising healthy turkey poults from day one. With the right diet and proper feeding techniques, your poults will thrive!
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Baby turkey poults are like any other baby – they need fresh food and water, and to be kept clean and warm. You can download our guide “Caring and Feeding of Baby Turkeys” or continue reading below.
Keeping poults warm entails a brooder. A good brooder will have several things – it will keep the poults safe, have either bedding to absorb wastes or a wire mesh floor to allow droppings to pass through, and a heat source. A brooder can be as simple as a cardboard box with one to three inches of wood shavings for bedding, or as complex as a commercial metal box brooder. For a few poults, cardboard has the advantage of being cheap, disposable/recyclable, and sanitary. A wooden or metal brooder is more appropriate for larger numbers of poults, or if you raise many batches of poults per season. It should be scrubbed and disinfected between uses. Brooders should be large enough to allow the poults to get away from the heat source –3’x4’ is a good size for a few poults and will allow plenty of room for the first couple of weeks. Turkey poults grow rapidly, and will need a larger brooder after a few weeks – they should never be overcrowded. For the first few days, place paper toweling or an old cloth towel over the litter, so the poults learn to eat food, not litter. Keep the brooder clean – change litter at least once a week, more if you have many poults. Damp dirty litter and droppings can cause respiratory problems and infections. Poults should never be brooded on newspaper – its surface is too slick and can cause leg problems.
For a small number of poults, a 100-150 watt hanging clamp-style work lamp is sufficient heat. Clamp to the side of the box and have the bulb and hood hanging over the side. For a greater number of poults, a 250-watt infrared bulb can be used. Infrared bulbs get very hot – they should be kept a minimum of 18 inches away from flammable items (such as wooden or cardboard walls, and wood shavings). If using an infrared bulb, be sure to use a porcelain socket – plastic will melt. A brooder should not be evenly heated. It should have a cooler area for chicks to find their level of comfort. For the first week of life, the brooder should be at about 95 degrees. Poults will let you know if the brooder is too hot or too cold. Too hot, and the birds will crowd as far from the heat as possible. Too cold, and they will stand huddled under the light and peep loudly. Raise or lower the heat source accordingly. If you cannot physically raise or lower the lamp, use a different wattage bulb. For each successive week, the temperature should be lowered 5 degrees until completely feathered out at five to six weeks. If housed out of drafts, they should not need any additional heat beyond this age.
Fresh, clean water should be available to poults at all times. The water should be cool, not hot and not cold. Birds drink to cool themselves down – if they start going through too much water, they may be overheated and the brooder temperature needs to be lowered. For 5 or fewer poults, a quart-size chick fount will take them through a few weeks; for more poults or older birds, a gallon fount will be a more appropriate size. You’ll know if you need a larger waterer if you need to fill more than once per day. Water should never be provided in an open dish – poults will track droppings and spilled feed through it and invite disease. For the first few days, the waterer can be placed directly on the toweling. When the toweling has been removed, place the waterer on a non-slip elevated surface, like a wire platform, to prevent the poults from scratching litter into their water. Increase height as they grow older – bricks or 2X4” wire-covered lumber boxes are equally useful.
Baby turkeys need to eat turkey/gamebird starter mash or crumbles, a blend specially formulated for their growth and development. Layer or breeder mash, crumbles, or pellets should never be fed to poults, not even as an emergency ration. It has a high calcium content that is toxic to poults and will cause bone, liver, and kidney problems or cause death. A good emergency ration is a 50-50 blend of rolled oats and cornmeal, whirled in a food blender to a mash or crumble consistency. They should not be on this emergency ration for more than a day or so, as it does not constitute a balanced diet. Starter feeds should contain no greater than 28% protein – too much protein causes growth problems. For the first few days, sprinkle feed on a paper towel so that poults can learn to eat. Poultry feeders come in many styles, but they should prevent feed spillage and wasting, and prevent contamination with litter or droppings. Elevating the feeder after the first few days helps.
Chick starter can be used to raise turkeys, with cautions: It does not have enough proteins or vitamins for good development. If chick starter is used, be sure to supplement with brewer’s yeast at the rate of 2 cups per 10 lbs of chick starter.
Turkeys have no teeth – they need grit in the form of small rocks to grind their food. Baby poultry grit consists of very small stones, like coarse sand, similar to parakeet grit. It should never contain oyster shell or other forms of calcium – excess calcium is very detrimental to poults. Most store-bought small grit preparations already have oyster shell in them. You can “make” your own chick grit by purchasing a bag of decomposed granite from a building supply store. Wash the granite in a large tub, rinsing out fine sand and mud, and letting it dry. Save the larger pieces for adult poultry, and sprinkle a bit of the smaller grains on the turkey starter as if you were salting food. If poults are given no additional food other than turkey starter, they don’t NEED grit but it may help in certain situations (see below).
Turkeys are good foragers and poults can go out on grass or range on warm days at a couple of weeks of age, if the lawn is unsprayed and grit is provided with their feed. Poults should only be allowed to range on clean ground, preferably where no adult poultry have been for 6-12 months to prevent bacterial or parasitic infestations. Grit may also be a good idea if you are using wood shavings as litter – it will help prevent crop impaction if litter is accidentally ingested.
Diarrhea and vent pasting (droppings sticking to their behinds) is a common problem in young poults. This is caused by a variety of problems, such as a brooder that is too cold. If pasting does occur, carefully pick off the dried droppings (warm water helps) so the vent does not become blocked. If pasting continues, try increasing the brooder temperature, or feed a blend of plain rolled oats processed in a blender mixed 50-50 with turkey starter. Sprinkling chick grit on their feed also helps prevent pasting.
Poults should be fed 28% protein turkey starter until 8 weeks of age. 24-26% protein turkey grower crumbles should be fed after the first 8 weeks until they are approximately 6 months of age. At that time, they can be switched to 16% – 18% lay pellets, crumbles, or mash. Additional calcium (for adults only) in the form of crushed oyster shell is beneficial, especially if the turkeys free range or are fed table scraps.
Turkey Poults Arrive on Farm – Grow Your Own Food Series
FAQ
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