Chorizo de Bilbao and Chinese sausage are two pork sausages that are staples in Filipino and Chinese cuisines respectively. Their similar appearance and use in dishes like paella have led some to believe they are interchangeable However, there are important differences between these two sausages that show they are not the same
A Tale of Two Sausages
Chorizo de Bilbao originated in the Philippines as a local version of Spanish-style chorizo sausage. It was created by Vicente Genato, founder of Genato Commercial Corporation, sometime after World War II. Genato wanted to make a sausage that had the flavor of chorizo but also evoked Spain, so he branded it “chorizo de Bilbao” after the capital of Spain’s Basque region.
Chinese sausage, or lap cheong, has a much longer history stemming from Cantonese culinary traditions. It likely originated as a way to preserve meat before refrigeration. The sausage consists of pork and liver seasoned with rice wine, soy sauce, salt and spices. It has a sweet flavor compared to chorizo de Bilbao.
So while their names sound similar chorizo de Bilbao and Chinese sausage have distinct backgrounds and flavor profiles. But over the years, Filipino cooks have sometimes substituted one for the other in recipes. So how exactly do they differ?
Key Differences Between the Sausages
Though they may look alike at first glance, several key differences set chorizo de Bilbao and Chinese sausage apart:
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Ingredients: Chorizo de Bilbao is made from ground pork and seasoned mainly with paprika, which gives it its signature deep red color. Chinese sausage contains pork and liver and is seasoned with rice wine, soy sauce and five-spice powder.
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Flavor: Chorizo de Bilbao has a peppery, spicy taste from the paprika. Chinese sausage is moderately sweet with umami flavor from the soy sauce.
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Texture: Chorizo de Bilbao has a soft, coarse texture from the ground pork. Chinese sausage is firmer with a smooth, dense texture.
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Cooking methods: Chorizo de Bilbao is often sautéed to add flavor to dishes. Chinese sausage is roasted, steamed or added to stir-fries and rice dishes.
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Origins: As described earlier, chorizo de Bilbao was invented in the Philippines while Chinese sausage has roots in Cantonese cuisine.
The Ongoing Confusion
Despite the differences between chorizo de Bilbao and Chinese sausage, many Filipino cooks have used the terms interchangeably or substituted one for the other over the years. There are a few reasons why this confusion persists:
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Limited availability of chorizo de Bilbao: Chinese sausage is far more widely available, especially outside the Philippines. This has led cooks to use it in place of chorizo de Bilbao simply because it’s easier to find.
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Visually similar appearance: To the untrained eye, the two sausages look somewhat alike, both being pork sausage links with red coloring. This had led some to assume they have similar flavors.
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Lack of awareness of differences: Many amateur home cooks are simply unaware of the distinct origins and ingredients. The similar sounding names exacerbate the confusion.
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Creative substitutions in recipes: Some cooks deliberately use Chinese sausage in chorizo de Bilbao recipes as an adaptation based on available ingredients. But this has caused misconceptions around the sausages being interchangeable.
Regardless of the reasons, the ongoing substitution and conflation of the two sausages has perpetuated the myth that chorizo de Bilbao and Chinese sausage are the same thing. Culinary experts debunk this myth, but it persists among casual cooks.
Why It Matters
For traditional Filipino dishes like paella and cocido, and Cantonese recipes alike, the differences between chorizo de Bilbao matter:
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Flavor profile: The seasoning and taste imparted during cooking will noticeably change by swapping one sausage for the other. This alters the overall flavor balance of dishes.
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Texture: The different textures of the two sausages also affect the eating experience. Chinese sausage provides a firmer, smoother chew compared to the soft, crumbly chorizo de Bilbao.
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Cultural significance: Using the proper sausage pays respect to each cuisine’s cultural heritage and traditions. Substituting crosses the flavors and histories.
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Dish authenticity: To retain authenticity of traditional recipes, the right sausage should be used according to origins and customary pairings.
While creative substitutions are understandable in some contexts, traditional Filipino and Chinese cooks argue that the differences between chorizo de Bilbao and Chinese sausage must be honored, especially when preparing time-honored dishes that originated with one sausage or the other. Their unique identities should not be lost.
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